A and I took a break from the DIY demolition of our house to have lunch by the river in Ludlow today. A played safe and had the (superlative) chicken liver paté. I braved the pig’s head salad. It was great. Clive (chef and proprietor) said that the inspiration was something he ate at Wild Honey in London. To my mind it had Fergus Henderson writ large all over it (or Tom Pemberton of Hereford Road). Have since flicked through Fergus’ recipe book, Nose To Tail Eating, and unearthed a similar recipe: Warm Pig’s Head.
You need a certain mindset to eat this. It can be learnt though. The recipe gives a clue to what you are in for: “the nozzle [of the pig] has the lipsticking quality of not being quite flesh nor quite fat, the perfect foil to the crunch of the crispy ear”.
It’s like eating at St John in Clerkenwell but with a table in the sun, ducks on the river and a better cup of coffee . . . and cheaper.