My annual marmalade making owes more to the delight in the process than a delight in the final product. I do really like marmalade, but the legion of jars of batches from previous years that lie in my kitchen cupboards point towards less of an overwhelming passion for the stuff rather. It does however allow for year on year comparisons. My recipe is always one cobbled together from various sources, the chief one being the WI preserves book. To some the chopping and slicing of seville orange skin is a chore, I take a zen like pleasure in the repetition, but then again I’m not going for a fine shred. I actually made this batch a fair few weeks ago; giddy with the sight of seville oranges in the grocers. As an aside, if you like the smell of seville oranges then, Bigarade Concentrée by Frederic Malle is the scent for you, it’s very fleeting on me but the man in Les Senteurs said that the bitter orange scent would reflect my personality – reader, I took it on the chin. Anyway 3kg of oranges was twice what I needed for marmalade so currently stowed in our cellar is an trial at using the excess to make a seville orange gin – the recipe for that says it needs to be stored for 4 years before being opened, not entirely sure my resolve is that strong.